Coat



May 6 1924.

e. A. GRUND GOAT , Filed Senc. 28. 1923 T1'.1.

Qua-lug Patented May 6, W24.

STA

GUSTAV A. GrR'UND, F PENSACOLA, FLORIDA.

COAT.

Application filed September 28, 1923.

To all whom it may conccm:

Be it known that I, GUSTAV A. GRUND, a

a citizen of the United States of America,

and resident of Pensacola, in the county of Escambia and State of Florida, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Coats, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to apparel, and particularly to a coat and the method of making the same.

It is an object of this invention to construct a coat in which each front portion, the facing therefor and half the collar are produced as integral structures, each front section being attached to a half back of the coat and the ends of the collar sections being connected at the back, the seam of which alines with the seam of the back.

The invention can be embodied in arments such as single and double breasted overcoats, double breasted sack coats, and straight front single breasted sack coats.

It is an object of the invention to produce an overcoat of the character indicated in which the sewing or stitching operations are reduced materially as compared with the methods of manufacturing coats now in common use, and the employment of the invention results in the production of coats having a neat appearance, and reducing the edges that have to be finished to complete the garment, so that the Work involved in the manufacture of the coat is greatly reduced.

With the foregoing and other objects in view, the invention consists in the details of construction, and in the arrangement and combination of parts to be hereinafter more fully set forth and claimed.

In describing the invention in detail, reference will be had to the accompanying drawings forming part of this application wherein like characters denote corresponding parts in the several views, and in which,

Figure 1 illustrates a View in elevation showing the front of a coat embodying the invention;

Figure 2'illustrates a view in elevation of the back thereof;

Figure 3 illustrates a detail View of the edge of the front section of the coat having the buttonholes;

Serial No. 665,423.

Figure 4 illustrates a sectional view on the line 4L4 of Fig. 3;

Figure 5 illustrates a sectional View on the line 55 of Fig. 3;

Figure 6 illustrates a plan View of the pattern or front of the coat; and

Figure 7 illustrates a plan view of one of the sections of the back of the coat.

In cutting the material for the front of the coat, the said material is shaped as illustrated in Fig. 6 of the drawing, in which 10 denotes the whole front section of the coat as it appears prior to the folding of the material. A dart, indicated by the dotted lines 11, is formed near the back edge and this dart extends from the armhole diagonally downward and preferably widened at the waist line in order that proper shape may be given the coat to conform to the figure being fitted. This dart, as one skilled in the art will understand, will vary in size, according to the requirements for proper fitting.

The material is folded on the line 12 in order that the portion between the line 12 and the edge 13 may be extended inwardly to produce a facing that is integral, of course, with the front portion of the coat. An extension 14: is integral with the front, and the material is folded, as will presently appear, to produce a half collar by the employment of the extension 14. After the material has been folded on the line 12, the material, as in Fig. 6, having the line 16, will be under the material having the line 15 and the two lines will be parallel. The superimposed layers of material will then be folded on the line 15, so that that portion of the material between the line 15 and that portion of the material above the line 15 will constitute the lapel of the coat when the material is folded over the front surface of the coat on the said line 15. The material will further be folded on the line 16 to form half the collar and a portion of the facing of the collar. The outer surface of the collar will be formed by that portion of the material between the line 16 and the edge 17 whereas the portion of the facing of the collar will be formed by the material on the opposite side of the said line 16.

There is a dart 18 at the upper edge of the front that can be of such size as to cause a proper fit, whereas the cutaway portion 19 results in the formation of the notch of the lapel when the parts are folded, it being understood that the collar portion from the notch to the end will be provided with a suitable facing that is supplemental to that portion of the facing that is integral with the collar section.

The coat will be provided with suitable buttons 20 at one edge and buttonholes 21 at the other edge. In order to make the buttonholes accessible, that portion of the front having the buttonholes is cut at the edge where the material is folded, and the layers of material are secured together at the edge in certain spaced positions so that the wearer of the coat may insert his fingers in the openings to facilitate the buttoning of the coat.

It will be seen from an inspection of Fig. 4 that a plurality of pocket-like recesses 21 are produced, one for each buttonhole, whereas the layers of material are secured together between the buttonholes by suitable stitching or fastening, as at 22.

It will be understood that each front section is of identical construction. except as to the formation of the buttonholes, so that by referring to Fig. 6 as charted, one skilled in the art will, it is thought, understand the invention and the manner in which the same is carried into practice.

While no reference has been made heretofore to it, it will be understood that the invention will be found practicable in the making of raincoats and other top coats wherein it will probably be desirable to have the buttonholes made in the ordinary 1nanner, that is, cut through the material.

I claim:

The herein described method of making a coat having front sections with integral facings extending the full length of the coat and an integral collar section, consisting in shaping the material with a marginal extension to be folded back to form the facing, the said folded material being then folded outwardly over the main portion of the front to produce the lapel and-to shape the collar section, and the production of a notch at the junction of the main portion of the material and the extension forming the collar portion whereby a notch is formed in the lapel when the material is folded substantially as described.

GUSTAV A. GRUND. 

